A perfect week cycling in gorgeous Puglia
My first multi-day cycle Adventure
I cannot recommend a cycling holiday in Puglia enough! Puglia is a gorgeous corner of Italy and a perfect destination for my first multi day cycle trip! My girlfriend and I found it an unforgettable adventure. Neither of us cycle heaps so don’t be concerned if you’re not an experienced cyclist or in peak physical condition; this is an adventure anyone can enjoy! And if you are experienced, well it’s easy to make the route longer! It’s safe, enjoyable, and the scenic views and cities along the way make it all worthwhile!
Our trip started in Bari and ended in Lecce. Bari is a charming coastal city where we enjoyed a few days before the start of the cycle. We savoured local cuisine, explored the old town, and indulged in plenty of gelato. Bari also had a bike shop from which we rented our bikes for the week. They also provide a travel itinerary for a small extra fee. Although we used this, we ended up changing our route daily based on how we were feeling. There’s plenty of stops and routes to make an individual itinerary perfectly achievable.
We didn’t appreciate it at the time but South Italy is significantly more affordable than the North! We took advantage of this, staying in prime locations in the old town, allowing us to easily enjoy the stunning architecture just a few minutes walk away.
Day 1 cycling: Bari to Polignano 60km
Although Bari is not very large, it took us about 30 minutes to leave the city and begin our journey along the coast. We had the option to ride on a wide sidewalk or on the road. Most cyclists start Polignano a Mare or Monopoli rather than Bari; which we would recommend as the first day was not very exciting.
Although Bari is not very large, it took us about 30 minutes to leave the city and begin our journey along the coast. Initially enjoyable along the promenade it quickly became dull and monotonous.
Being from the UK and Estonia we hate rain and made sure to hide from it wherever possible! Fortunately, shelter was easily found in the towns we passed.
The majority of the road had become wet, requiring us to exercise extra caution due to the numerous deep potholes. The second half of the day was fortunately much more enjoyable as it became drier and we found ourselves cycling amongst olive groves.
Living the dream! Nearly the end of day 1 and looking forward to have a well deserved dinner! Everything is more enjoyable when you travel with your favourite person. We were also happy to finally be off the gravel roads and enjoyed cruising on the asphalt.
60km later and we finally reached Polignano a Mare and a breathtaking sunset! There is an incredible looking restaurant in the cliffs with the view over the ocean, but it was a bit too pricy for us. Plus we were exhausted and just wanted a take-away pizza with a nice 4 euro bottle of wine; it was the best dinner ever!
Although I was somewhat surprised by my fatigue and the heavy rain on the first day (Eisha was adamant she wasn’t tired), we were reassured by the promising weather forecast for the days ahead. Cycling around Puglia felt safe, with no incidents on the road. The locals in Puglia were notably friendly, laid-back, and considerate, both in traffic and out of it. In hindsight, we would consider skipping the initial part of the journey, as the most scenic views awaited us after Polignano a Mare.
2) The famous cove nestled admits cliffs and houses
3) Houses perched on the cliff
It’s a beautiful town, worth staying a night or two.
DAY 2 of cycling: Polignano a Mare to Monopoli 12km
The second day of cycling began with an espresso and croissant- a typical Italian breakfast. Following that, we planned our route for the day, and fortunately, the weather had improved significantly.
When I say “us,” I’m referring to my incredible girlfriend who took charge of organizing the entire cycling aspect of our trip, from renting the bikes and mapping out the route to making adjustments and booking accommodations. Considering how many changes we did daily, she did an amazing job. I was essentially just a passenger princess.
Since we were still experiencing soreness from the previous day of cycling, we decided against riding directly to Alberobello. Instead, we decided to have a slow morning at Polignano a Mare and then more relaxed day in Monopoli.
A little bit about our bikes. They were Specialized hybrid bikes equipped with 2 paniers. These bags contained all our clothes and phone chargers for the cycling trip, while the rest of our luggage was left with the bike rental company. We had no problems with the bikes but next time would go for a slight upgrade to be a bit more comfortable, plus we this trip made us realise that lighter bikes equals less effort cycling!
The bike ride from Polignano a Mare to Monopoli was pleasant and effortless, mostly on cycling paths and very flat. Upon reaching Monopoli, we enjoyed a delightful 2-hour break with snacks and espresso at the Old Town square.
Greatly enjoying a delicious takeaway pizza dinner on our balcony. The pizza from Apicia cafe was not only delicious but also very affordable, and they offer home delivery for just 2 euros.
One of my favourite accommodations in Italy was the one in Monopoli; a balcony overlooking the charming narrow Italian street and neighbours casually wavering hello, dinner was a wonderfully relaxed affair.
We fell in love with Monopoli, enjoying the city’s charming old town, delicious food and relaxed atmosphere. We were sad we had to leave and wished we could stay an extra day. Monopoli is definitely a city you could spend a few days or use as your base for exploring the area!
After second day of our cycling trip, we were still deciding on the amount of cycling we wanted to do each day, as well as how we wanted to balance our time between sightseeing and cycling. Being our first multi day trip we were unprepared for the extra effort carrying everything with us would have! Fortunately it was low season so we had the flexibility to book accomodation last minute!
Day 3 of cycling: Monopoli to Alberobello 30km
We started our day agin with an espresso; enjoying this on our balcony. Although the day’s route was only 30km, it was largely uphill, making it the most demanding day of the holiday.
The roads near Alberobello were stunning, well worthwhile the uphill cycle.
After a challenging uphill cycling journey through picturesque small roads with fascinating architecture, we finally reached Alberobello. Alberobello and the road around it are full of trulli- round white building local to the area. I have never seen building like it and to see a whole town built this way was beautiful.
However, Alberobello was also the most expensive place in terms of accommodation and restaurants. Like much of Puglia, the restaurants close after 2pm so finding a place for lunch after finishing the day’s cycle is a challenge! Despite being a tiny town that can be explored in just a couple of hours, it is definitely worth visiting. I would recommend staying for only one night at most, as there are limited activities and dining options, especially if you prefer mountainous landscapes, coastal views, and a wider selection of restaurants. Nevertheless, Alberobello is a truly stunning city.
A picturesque Italian village, very touristy but completely unique
DAY 4 of cycling: Alberobello to Ostuni 40km
We would usually check out at 10 am after a lazy wake up and coffee before starting the day. This usually meant we arrive to our next destination about 3pm, happily coinciding with check in times. This perfectly balanced a days cycling with time to explore a new town, particularly as old towns in Europe truly come alive at night! We found it a bit challenging to find places open for an early dinner around 6/7pm (exhausted as we were from the day’s activities) as the locals typically dine at 9pm, but we made it work.
Due to the limited options of cafes and restaurants in Alberobello, we opted to grab our morning coffee and croissant from a small town along the way to Ostuni, and it turned out to be the perfect choice!
Locorotondo is a beautiful hilltop city overlooking a valley. An easy downhill cycle from Alberobello, I highly recommend staying there for a night and doing day trip to Alberobello instead. It’s cheaper, more vibrant and less tourist. Plus it is the place we discover the best pastry in Pulgia, possibly all of Italy.
Cycling through Locorotondo and feeling hungry we stumbled upon a delightful cafe offering a fantastic view. Coffee, orders and a slight language barrier later our waitress brought us a surprise pastry typical to Puglia. This became our favourite pastry for the rest of the trip. pasticciotto is delicious, and for once the chocolate doesn’t win; the tradition version filled with cream is a clear winner.
Stomachs satisfied, we continued our cycle through the hills. With scenic views and quiet roads this was the best cycle day so far. The fact it was largely downhill possibly helped. Days like this make you long for a month-long cycling holiday.
On reaching Ostuni, we immediately fell in love with the city. Fortunately, we had already decided we needed some rest days and booked a few days in the city. The accommodation was incredible with a roof terrace overlooking the ocean and the Old Town. For 3 days we had breakfast and dinner on that terrace; what a life! Ostuni was also where I had the best gelato in Italy! Definetely recommend.
DAY 4 of cycling: Ostuni to Mesagne 42km
Our stay in Ostuni was amazing, but it was time to move on to Mesagne.
Our speed increased from an average of 10km/h to 17km/h aw we cruised downhill,
In my view, Mesagne was a charming small town, although not particularly exciting. Coming from Estonia, I have a natural fondness for potatoes, especially filled ones, and I was ecstatic to discover a little cafe serving delicious filled potato in the city square. Obviously I forced Eisha to eat dinner there. We took 20 minutes to leisurely walk around the entire (tiny) Old Town but Mesagne is more a necessary stop to break up the cycle rather than a true destination in itself. Perhaps because of this; there was a distinct and appreciated lack of tourists but we missed the mountain or oceans views we had enjoyed so far.
DAY 5 of cycling: Mesagne to Lecce 45km
It was now time for our final day of cycling as we made our way towards Lecce. Alli know about Lecce is that it is one of the few southern teams competing in Serie A. A football reference Eisha didn’t care much about.
With a population of 100k, Lecce is a sizeable city. We spent a few days there and honestly, documenting the city’s beautiful architecture, restaurants, parks, and vibrant atmosphere, would be a post in itself! It’s a stunning city and we were happily surprise to find it well developed with an abundance of cycle lanes! My highlight in this city was the celebratory dinner- the best ( on only) pistachio pasta I have ever eaten, delicious local wine and a tapas like starter.
Having spent 2 nights in Lecce, we were greeted last morning by a piano player performing beneath our window, providing a delightful and surreal start to the day.
Finally, It was time to pack up and take the train back to Bari. It was simple to take a train as we didn’t pre-book any tickets due to the efficient train service to Bari. Although we couldn’t purchase bike tickets from the machine, it was easy to do so at the counter. Given the high number of cyclists in the area, I suggest arriving early at the train station to secure a spot for your bike, as they are limited.
We had a great time cycling and are looking forward to more adventures like this in the future! I’m excited for what’s to come!
Written by Martti and Eisha